Properly bright workshop lighting

Properly bright workshop lighting

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Snow and Rocks

Original Poster:

1,946 posts

28 months

Friday 2nd February
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I've recently been building a new workshop and the time has come to consider the lighting.

The workshop is 10.8m x 4.8m with the ceiling open to the apex of the roof at around 4.5m and is lit at the moment with a couple of 50w LED portable floodlights. It's still dark enough in there to need a headtorch for detailed work so I want to do things properly.

Anything better than say 4 of these mounted along the apex of the roof with a couple of wall mounted anglepoise style directable lamps over the workbench. Completely in the dark as to how many lumens I actually need!

https://www.ledandpower.co.uk/product/high-bay-led...


defblade

7,449 posts

214 months

Friday 2nd February
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My garage/workshop is a similar size, I will shortly be taking out the 3 crappy 4-bulb fittings that my wife had in there when it was her office, and fitting a bunch of LED battens instead. They'll be going in 2 rows along pretty much the full length, so will be over the work surfaces both sides and then either side of the car. I hope to stop wearing a headtorch for most of the stuff I do in there.
The only part that won't have bright, clear light cast over it will be the information given to my wife about the cost wink

(ETA: current plan is 8 or 10 of these: https://www.ledbulbs.co.uk/products/oracle-ip20-le...
I like the idea of being able to change the colour temp, I'll probably have the 2 over the main benches set to daylight, and the rest to cool white.)

Paul Drawmer

4,882 posts

268 months

Saturday 3rd February
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LED battens for me. They'll give a better spread of light with less shadows.

G Thang

288 posts

29 months

Saturday 3rd February
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I have a single 120w or 130w (I can't remember) led batten in a 6m x 3.6m space and an extra 20w in one end. It's very bright overall, especially under the 120, the 20 is ample for a storage area.

In your space I think 4 of the 100 watters would be quite light.

Get one and see what it looks like.

I also have a 10m x5m garage, with 4 x 20w battens in one 5 x 5 half. Also bright enough for general mechanics, but needs more if you're doing more detailed work. So I'd be going with maybe 2 x 120s for that area, or 4 x 40s for a more even spread. In a square not in a central line.

Edited by G Thang on Saturday 3rd February 07:24

Belle427

9,039 posts

234 months

Saturday 3rd February
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Those high bays do look good but maybe overkill for a small workshop, you could buy one and try it first though to see what the light pattern is like.
They are dimmable which is a bonus.

Teddy Lop

8,301 posts

68 months

Saturday 3rd February
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As said a larger number of batten fittings to spread light to every corner, those high bay lights will give you very bright glarey spots, they're designed for like 10m cielings (hence the name)

MDT

475 posts

173 months

Saturday 3rd February
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As a few above have suggested, led batten lights are the way to go, the other key thing to do is if you can paint the walls white, this helps with reducing shadows as it will help to bounce the light.

I have a 6x6 garage white walls and about 7 4ft long batten lights in it. you can even see what you are doing under a car on axel stands for the most part.

LimaDelta

6,535 posts

219 months

Saturday 3rd February
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Always worth pointing out that you are better with more lights, rather than brighter lights. Over bright lights create more prominent shadows and glare and can make things worse for working.

LooneyTunes

6,908 posts

159 months

Saturday 3rd February
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I put a run of high bays in one of my barns last autumn and they’re very good.

100w toughbay from CEF, 5no along a ~20m x ~15m shed. It’s nice and bright for general horse type stuff, and you could use it happily as a workshop (brighter than most people would light their garage) but I’d want a bit more for detail work.

I reckon four of them in the space you’ve got would give plenty of light, but I’d be tempted to get dimmable ones or put them on multiple circuits.

Fitted each of mine using 4no girder clips onto the steel and chains from each in an inverted pyramid arrangement to a carbine hook to hang the light from. TLC sell some nice IP rated quick connectors so I pre-fitted these onto the lights at ground level just to make it easier to hook them up. The advantage of this is that I can swap out a unit in minutes if I ever need to.

I’m going to be doing similar in my workshop, but with a couple of non-corrosive LED battens to deal with the cat slide section of the roof

mikey_b

1,835 posts

46 months

Saturday 3rd February
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Some good tips here already, but I'll echo those posters saying 'more' rather than 'brighter' - if you have only a small number of bright lights, you always end up working in your own shadow. Also, white walls make an big difference. It's well worth spending a couple of evenings slapping cheap white emulsion from one of those massive tubs onto every bit of wall you can get to.

Do you need that 4.5m height? If not, plasterboard it and paint the ceiling white too. You can then insulate and board the area above for more warmth at ground level, and also gain a storage area.

Edited by mikey_b on Saturday 3rd February 09:29

OutInTheShed

7,824 posts

27 months

Saturday 3rd February
quotequote all
I got a handful of 4ft fluorescents for nothing, they were being changed out for LED in a local factory.
I have some LED for instant light.
I have 'task lighting' over benches including an naglepoise for certain work.

Lots of lights on different switches for lots of options.
Also any wall or ceiling space that's not rammed with your valuable collection of spares, tools and materials can usefully be painted white

The best thing of all though is some windows or roof lights.

Teddy Lop

8,301 posts

68 months

Saturday 3rd February
quotequote all
OutInTheShed said:
I got a handful of 4ft fluorescents for nothing, they were being changed out for LED in a local factory.
I have some LED for instant light.
I have 'task lighting' over benches including an naglepoise for certain work.

Lots of lights on different switches for lots of options.
Also any wall or ceiling space that's not rammed with your valuable collection of spares, tools and materials can usefully be painted white

The best thing of all though is some windows or roof lights.
Be mindful of stroboscopic effects when using fluorescents in such environments, if you can get tubes for them that is!

Actual

775 posts

107 months

Saturday 3rd February
quotequote all
Beware some LED batten are better than others...

I purchased this
Ansell Tornado Twin 6ft LED Non-Corrosive Batten Fitting 71W 7320lm 230V (currently £59.48 inc VAT)
I installed the first one and I'm actually pleased that it failed because it was such a pig to put up as the X8 metal clasp clips all pinged off when I working at ceiling height. A real design failure.

I replaced with
JCC ToughLED Pro 6ft LED Weatherproof Batten 72W Twin IP65 (currently £45.99 inc VAT)
On this model the clips do not fall out and there are better internal wiring options and cable routing options. Just better in so many aspects you don't appreciate until you have used it.

Snow and Rocks

Original Poster:

1,946 posts

28 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
Thanks everyone - some useful info there.

There are already windows high up and painting everything white is next on the list but I still want it as bright as I sensibly can in there.

Currently thinking along the lines of ~10 of these with a couple of anglepoise lamps over the seated bench for detailed work. Seem very reasonably priced for a branded fitting and will add up to 60k lumens so should be bright and nicely spread out. Will order one first and give it a try.

https://ledsupplyandfit.co.uk/p/philips-tri-proof-...

Teddy Lop

8,301 posts

68 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
I'd split it over 2 or 3 circuits too just to give a bit of overall control, or if you're working at one end only

OutInTheShed

7,824 posts

27 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
Teddy Lop said:
Be mindful of stroboscopic effects when using fluorescents in such environments, if you can get tubes for them that is!
Good point.
I do have soem rotating machines, pillar drill, small lathe, bench grinder.
There may be some old and nasty LEDs that can strobe too!

I have halogen GU50 for some of the task lights over benches, I've big box of them swapped out of kitchens.
They don't do the hours in the shed to worry about the electricity cost, and the warmth is sometimes welcome!

LED replacement tubes for fluorescent fittings are down to very sensible money now. When the tubes fail, I'll swap them.

CouncilFerrari

551 posts

58 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
MDT said:
As a few above have suggested, led batten lights are the way to go, the other key thing to do is if you can paint the walls white, this helps with reducing shadows as it will help to bounce the light.

I have a 6x6 garage white walls and about 7 4ft long batten lights in it. you can even see what you are doing under a car on axel stands for the most part.
This is crucial in my experience. I have four LED battens but the walls are painted white, and it made the world of difference.

Snow and Rocks

Original Poster:

1,946 posts

28 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
OutInTheShed said:
Good point.
I do have soem rotating machines, pillar drill, small lathe, bench grinder.
There may be some old and nasty LEDs that can strobe too!

I have halogen GU50 for some of the task lights over benches, I've big box of them swapped out of kitchens.
They don't do the hours in the shed to worry about the electricity cost, and the warmth is sometimes welcome!

LED replacement tubes for fluorescent fittings are down to very sensible money now. When the tubes fail, I'll swap them.
I don't do a lot with serious rotating machinery and working alone in an otherwise silent environment it's usually pretty obvious when something is spinning. There's also an old wood burner in there waiting to be connected up so shouldn't be too cold!

Have ordered one of those Phillips battens so will do some experimenting when I get a chance.

Byker28i

60,524 posts

218 months

Monday 5th February
quotequote all
I've used 40W 600mm x 600mm panel lights, like you get in office false ceilings as they come with a bracket to mount. Really bright, spread the light better than a batten light
https://www.wholesaleledlights.co.uk/catalog/produ...

Then I added a batten light over the engine bay

Snow and Rocks

Original Poster:

1,946 posts

28 months

Friday 3rd May
quotequote all
Well just to add some sort of conclusion to this for anyone looking to do something similar.

I opted for 10 of these on 2 circuits with another couple set under shelves over my main workbench. Let's just say 84 000 lumens in a 9.6 x 4.8m shed definitely meets my "properly bright" specification. Nice even light too with absolutely no trace of a shadow anywhere. Being honest 4 would have probably been plenty!

The under counter lighting is definitely worth doing too, no need for an anglepoise for even very close work. Thanks for the advice everyone - photos don't really do the amount of light justice but the one below made me laugh. Great result for a fairly modest outlay.

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GLBATSCW6.ht...